White sand beaches and Coconut Trees (21st - 28th April)

Kuala Terengganu

We spent 3 nights in Kuala Terengganu, the largest town on the east coast. There we plenty of sights to see so the town kept us busy. The first night we arrived we headed to the night market. Unlike usual night markets (pasar malam) in Malaysia - which usually have a seated area surrouned by food stalls - this one was next to a beach so after choosing some scrumptuos treats everyone sat on the beach watching the sunset.

We met a young malay couple - Faizal and Zan - at the market and when they heard we were from NZ they were stoked. Faizal plays rugby for the state and is as mad as any rugby head in NZ. So after answering some questions about NZ rugby they invited to take us around town the following day. So with our local guides we went to the huge state museum (touted as the largest museum in southeast asia!!) and visited many other sights. They also took us to some great restuarants to sample some local delights. Faizal and Zan were so generous and they spoilt nat by giving her a beautiful batik sarong. Batik is a local art where they use wax to outline a drawing on cloth, following that dye is spread between the wax and then the wax is washed out, leaving just the dye. We wish them all the best for their first child, due in october!!

There were some beautiful mosques in KT (see photo), their architecture is refreshing and we feel we are bit "templed out" after Thai buddhist temples, Khmer temples in Cambodia, Cham temples in Vietnam and buddhists temples in Laos. The one on the water is "the floating mosque" and is said to be guarded by a white crocodile.

Mosques





Kuala Terengganu to Rantau Abang
Distance - 67km
Average - 18.9km/h


After leaving KT, we rode to Rantau Abang, a small collection of restaurants and guesthouses on the beach. But the main attraction is that it is an area where leather back turtles lay their eggs. Unfortunately we did not see any. But our bungalow which we only had to jump off our deck to be on the beach made up for the missed turtles. At these small places accomodation is pretty cheap. This place was 30 ringitt, or NZ$12 for a beachfront bungalow.

Rantau Abang to Cherating
Distance - 114km
Average - 18.9km/h


We headed on to Cherating, the so called "beach town" of the east coast. We had a long day's riding as their were no accomodation options in our price range (ie. cheap) along the way. After asking a few locals enroute about cheap chalets, they kept on recommending this 5 start resort, and couldnt understand why we wouldnt want to stay their (it costs upwards of NZ$300!!).

In reality Cherating is a small village with a dozen bungalow style accomodation options and some restaurants. There is two streets and the place has an eerie feel about it. Apparently not many people come here anymore, opting for the islands instead. There must have been only 50 or so other visitors there and most were malays from Kuala Lumpur who hit the beach for the weekend. We ended up staying 4 days, with our days revolving around swimming, reading and eating. We met two british women cyclists who were in their last days of a year long journey from London to Australia!! A huge achievement, but talking to them has given us some ideas......

Food stall On Cherating beach


Cherating to Kuantan
Distance - 47km
Average - 20.0km/h


We left Cherating with fresh legs and sand in our hair. A cruisy 47km lay ahead with a nice ride that hugged the coast and passed through some nice forested area also. We sped along and arrived well before lunch time and came across the problem of arriving before most people checked out of hotels. There were some great restaurants in Kuantan. We had a delicious banana leaf curry (nasi daun pisang) for lunch. This meal is when they give you a large banana leaf for a plate then load the rice on, followed by dollops of condiments and popadoms then you get a selection of curries. Again, very delicious.

Banana Leaf Curry


Tosai (breakfast NZ 40c)

Start of Malaysian East Coast Ride (17th - 20th April 07)

Day 1:
Kota Bharu to Kuala Besut
Distance - 63km
Average - 18.6 km/h

After nearly 2 weeks off the horse, it was great to get back in the saddle. We have started to get quite attached to our bikes. We often refer to them as 'the kids' when they sleep in our room. We have got fond of buying them little gifts, like the bell with a compass on the top or our new mirrors so we can see traffic without craning our head around. Maybe a GPS could be the next bday pressie from the olds ...........

Anyway, we were looking forward to riding again and also hitting the beaches. We headed to the coast from Kota Bharu and came across our first beach after 20km. To celebrate the fact it was the first time we had seen the sea for 2 months we stopped for a refreshing swim. The water must be over 30 degrees and is crystal clear. Fantastic. The road we are riding along runs for about 700km down the coast. There are beaches aplenty and there is NO-ONE on them, we are usually the only ones swimming. It is quite difficult getting changes under a sarong. But since muslims wear full clothes while swimming we make an effort to not show off our nakedness (ie. bikini and shorts).

The road is dead flat and winds along the coast, under the shade of tropical palms and through small towns. We stayed in Kuala Besut (Kuala = river mouth)the first night and came across a great seafood restaurant right on the waterfront. We had steamed fish with lemongrass and ginger and a malay vegetable curry. The fish was super fresh and we got to pick which one we wanted from a bucket. It is great to be back on the coast and we both really relish being able to go for swims and eat some great seafood.

Fresh fish at Kuala Besut waterfront


Day 2:
Kuala Besut to Penarik
Distance - 62.5km
Average - 17.2km/h

The next day we headed off after our usual breakfast of Roti Canai (indian bread with curry) and Kopi (coffee, either black with sugar, or sweet milk). Roti Canai has to be one of the best foods in the world and could be likened to having toast for breakfast, but there is no comparison. It only cost 0.60sen (NZ 20cents) per peice and we often knock back 2 or 3. It is great getting stuck in local style, with your hands. But make sure not to use your left hand as that is used for number 2's. So there is an art of ripping with your middle fingers while holding it with your thumb and little finger. Then dip it in the curry and ahhhhh. Roti usually only lasts til 10am so there is no roti for sleeping in.

Delicious Breakfast: Roti Canai and Kopi'O


After riding for a while we stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant, we were joined by a malaysian local doctor and his friend. We got talking to them and after they asked us questions such as our daily budget, the cost of our bikes and our occupations, they offered to buy us lunch. After trying to resist we succumbed and let them. But this is typical of Malaysia. The people are super friendly and are interested in talking. Most people speak some english as science and maths at school are taught in english. We use conversations to try our Bahasa Malay on them and get tips.

After about 60km ,we came across a town called Penarik. We werent planning to stay there but we saw a sign for some chalets with a cyclist on them. So we followed the sign and found these chalets. They were right on the beach and we were the only ones there. They pretty much only cater to cyclists as no transport stops there so cyclists or other tourers are their main clientele. The town has a few hundred people in it and that is the only accommodation. We ended up staying for 2 nights it was so great. The beach was beautiful and once again......we had the whole beach to ourselves. It was a few kilometers long and there was no one else!!! The place was run buy a couple of young guys and they showed us photo albums of other cyclists. They went and bought us fresh fish and we had great Ikan Bakar (bbq fish).

Penarik Beach

View from our chalet at Penarik


Day 4:
Penarik to Kuala Terengannu
Distance - 66km
Average - 18.0 km/h

After a day on the beach we continued our journey and rode another 60km to Kuala Terengganu the state capital of......Terengganu. Apparently it has the largest museum in SE asia. We will definately have to see that!!

Train through Southern Thai Turmoil to Malaysia(13th -17th April 07)

We wanted to head down to Malaysia on either the 13th or 14th of April in order to give us enough time to cycle down the east coast of Malaysia. We decided to go by train as there has been a lot of turmoil in southern Thailand with rebel attacks, and we didn't think cycling would be the safest idea. The NZ government strongly warns against travel in this area, but we thought we would risk it on the train.

When Nick went to the train station to book our tickets, he was told that sleepers were all booked out for the next five days. This was because it was Songkran (Thai new year) and many Thais were travelling around the country to be with their families for this festive holiday. We were told that there were still hard wooden seats available or first class tickets. So we were in a bit of a dilemma about whether to wait for five days for normal 2nd class sleeper tickets or to try another class. The hard wooden seats would have been a test of endurance as the train is 22 hours long and the hard seats are unbearable after a 2 hour trip - let along sleeping on them. Also the carriages are often very crowded so you cant even stretch your legs. The other option was first class. This was 1650 baht (about 60nzd) per person whereas the normal 2nd class sleeper is about 700 baht. We made a call and decided to go first class. This was quite a splash for our normally very strict budget, but we really wanted to get to Malaysia and 3rd class was out of the question.

So the train trip to the Southern border with Malaysia was done in style. We had a cabin all to ourselves which had a big couch which turned into a sleeper at night. There was also a sink and mirror in the cabin. We plugged in our ipod with speakers and enjoyed a nice bottle of Aussie red that my (Nat's) auntie gave me a few days earlier. It was a great change to how we normally travel.

Our first class cabin!!


We learnt a few days later when in Kota Bharu that the exact same train that we were on, but one day later, was shot at by rebels in this southern part of Thailand. A five year old girl and a train officer were injured in the attacks. The train line has since been suspended. This was pretty scary to learn that if we were one day later, our train would have been shot at. From what research we did before we left Bangkok we learnt that foreigners were not being targeted, it was mainly government sectors that were being targeted as the Muslim minority in the south were seeking greater autonomy, which the state has failed to approve. So incidents such as this is a matter of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. We were lucky to be one day out, but still stirred up our fears when we heard about it.

The train turned out to take 5 hours longer than it was supposed to, so all up it took 27 hours. We got to Sungai Kolok, the Thai border town at around 4.30 and still had to ride 40km across into Malaysia and to Kota Bharu, where we would be staying for the evening. We dont usually cycle at night, but by the time we would on our bikes we had no option but to ride the last part into Kota Bharu in the dark (we do have back and front lights but we dont feel that safe in Malay traffic at night).

Sungai Kolok to Kota Bharu
Distance - 43.1km
Average - 19.5km/h

When we arrived into Kota Bharu we went to a cheap guesthouse and then headed straight off to the Pasar Malam (night market). Malaysian food is something that we both love and Kota Bharu has a famous night market where one can try all the local specialities.

We tried Nasi Kerebu which is a rice dish served with coconut, salad greens and a chilli paste. A great base to have with other dishes of meat or curry. We also tried satays of Chicken and Beef and Murtabak which is a type of roti that is filled with either chicken, beef or banana. Nick also dived straight into the sweet stall which has such a huge range of different Malay sweets. The night market was a great welcome to the start of our trip in Malaysia.

Nasi Kerebu from the Pasar Malam (night market)


We stayed in Kota Bharu for 3 nights. There is lots to do including the Museum, wandering around the central market and the cultural centre.

Birds eye view of the central market


The cultural centre is a great place which puts on shows every afternoon free of charge. From all the travel we have done in Asia, no city so far has catered so well for tourists such as putting on these fabulous cultural shows. The first day we went we saw traditional Malay kite flying and kicking of the ratan ball (just like hacky sack but with a can ball instead). They get you involved and we both ended up playing with the ratan ball for a few hours.

Nat playing Ratan (hacky sack with a cane ball)


The second day we went to the cultural centre we saw traditional self defence, top spinning and a drum band. All highly enjoyable with few spectators so they get everyone that shows up involved. There we met some other travellers who gave us some helpful tips to cycling in Europe.

Kota Bharu is in Kelantan state, which is the most conservative in Malaysia. There is a comparatively much smaller proportion of Indians and Chinese in the state and so there is an apparent Malay dominance in all spheres. One aspect that is initially the most obvious is the conservative dress. All across Malaysia many women (but not all) wear head scarfs, and the proportion of this is much higher in Kelantan. As a foreign women in Kota Bharu, I felt a little bit exposed at times compared to the local women. So I always tried to be a little more conservative in dress than normal, yet this is pretty hard when in 35 degree temperatures. We have heard of other travellers avoid Kota Bharu because of these strong Islamic beliefs, but we both found that it gave the city a unique dimension and you still were very welcomed by the local people. All up we both had a great time in Kota Bharu and it is well worth venturing to if travelling to Malaysia.

Nat racing the kids after school

8 nights in Bangkok (4th - 13th April 07)

After a short stay in Chiang Mai, which we wish was longer, we headed down to Bangkok on an overnight train. The best way is by fan sleeper. It is much cheaper than air con and you can have the window down while hanging your head out. We usually do rock, scissors, paper to see who gets the better lower bunk, somehow Nat always knows what I am going to do so I end up on the smaller bunk.

Nick browsing the Bangkok Post on our way to Bangkok


We had a few things to do in Bangkok, such as getting our Russian Visa, buying panniers for the bikes and sending our packs home!!! Getting our russian visa proved dead easy after getting all the paper work together (which was 99% of the work). We also bought flash new Ortieb panniers - 40L for nick and 25L baby ones for Nat - to carry all our gear. They are 100% waterproof, german made, and 9/10 cyclists we see use them.

We enjoyed our time in Bangkok and managed to whittle away 8 days. It was our 3rd time here in as many months but we both have become fond of the hustle and bustle of the city. We were both in need of a change of clothes as our's were starting to show the signs of 4 months of handwashing, so we visited the Chatachuk market, which is a huge weekend market. We had been there a few times before and new there were bargains to be had. The market has over 15,000 stalls and you can get anything from, clothes, furniture, antiques to pets. There are food and drink stalls at every corner so we ended up snacking all day. We ended up with a few new t-shirts each, a bargain at NZ$6 each.

We also spent a few days exploring the city using the local buses. You can get across town for 7Baht (25cents) so they are a great way to get around once you figure out which ones go where. We visited Siam Square, a collection of 5 shopping malls and an outdoor mall. Each mall caters for different levels of fashion and price. There is MBK that is packed with teenagers fighting for cheap clothes bargains or electronics then there is the Siam Paragon where you can visit Gucci and Armani shops. They even have people who have giant squiggie brooms that soak up water on the pavement after it rains!!

But the great thing about Bangkok is there contrasts at every step. You can go to a flash mall, then walk around the corner and slurp up a noodle soup from a street vendor. Or a 2 minute bus ride away and you are in the heart of chaotic chinatown.

We were also there for the beginning of Songkran - Thai New Year - also know as the water festival (13-17 April). It is good luck to soak and be soaked in water. The day before Songkran people pour water on Buddhas then on the 13th all hell breaks loose. The streets are lined with Thais and foreigners armed with water guns, buckets and hoses whose sole purpose is to get as many people as wet as possible. If you have dry clothes you are especially targeted. It is also 'fun' to put clay paint on peoples faces!!

We had to ride through town to get to the train station and knew we would not be turning up dry. We wore some dirty clothes and headed out. After making a bad call and riding down a street near Khao San Rd (THE backpacker street) we got caught in a street party. We ended up getting totally soaked and we both looked like we had just got a facial as we were covered in white clay paint. Lucky we had our new 100% waterproof panniers!! It had been pretty hot in Bangkok so the water provided some cooling relief. Talking to locals, the waterfights usually go on for the whole 4 days. Many locals leave because they are sick of getting wet everytime they leave the house!! Nick got soaked while out the day before Songkran and had no underwear left, so he had to resort to wearing Nat's bikini bottoms!!

Soaking Buddha for Songkran

Waterfighting in Bangkok

China vs Malaysia

While in rural Laos with little to do, we had a long time to ponder about our future travel plans. The original route was to head back to Hanoi in Vietnam, sort out our bags which were with a friend there, and then head northwards to China. This would give us 2 months in China before our train booking from Beijing to Moscow.

There were a few issues that arose that made us rethink our plan. Firstly we were not too sure about cycling in China. We had met a couple that raved about cycling in China and were very convincing, yet the sheer size of China is a bit daunting to tackle on bicycle. We thought it would be better to travel to most of the places we wanted by train.

The other main factor which influenced our choice of travelling to China was how Chinese people are frequently compared to the Vietnamese in nature. While there are some very friendly Vietnamese, as I'm sure there are Chinese, we discovered after 5 weeks in Vietnam there is a general attitude to rip off foreigners in any way possible. While this was not the case with every transaction we made in Vietnam, it happened more than a few times a day which really got on our nerves. I view double pricing as a form of racism and it was something that we didn't want to be a part of. So when many other travellers we have met say this is also the case in China, we started to think seriously about our decision.

We originally allocated 2 months in China, which is a pretty long time if we were not enjoying ourselves. Also getting out of China is quite expensive if we wanted to shorten the two months.

So one day while cycling through a part of Laos we came up with the idea to cycle down the east coast of Malaysia. When we were in Malaysia in December, we both absolutely loved the people and the food. Last time we only travelled up the west coast of peninsula Malaysia, and so there was still a lot for us to explore. Being on bicycle for this trip would also make it quite a different experience from the last. We did some research to see if this was possible, and discovered a super cheap airfare on Air Asia from Kuala Lumpur to Macau for $150nzd. This meant that we could travel south from Bangkok to the North-East of Malaysia to Kota Bharu. Then spend 5 weeks travelling down the east coast to Johor Bharu, possibly Singapore, and back up the Southern-West coast to Melaka and finally Kuala Lumpur.

We were both really excited about this idea, and so we just decided overnight to change our plans and head south to Malaysia. We still both wanted to see China, and we still need to get there for our train departure, but we thought 1 month instead of 2 was more sensible if we don't like it. Then if we do turn out to like it after all we can always go back there at a later time.

The flight was soon booked from KL to Macau for May 20th which gives us 5 weeks to travel down the east coast and then to KL. A perfect amount of time to explore the beautiful beaches and islands along the coast, while eating lots of delicious Malay dishes and meeting friendly people.

Back to Thailand (2nd - 4th April 07)

From Pak Beng we caught a 10 hour slow boat up the Mekong River to the Lao-Thailand border crossing of Huay Xai. Most people take this boat as a two day trip from Luang Prabang, but we just joined the boat for the second day. This was a very wise decision as the seats were wooden and small, and after a couple of hours the bums were very numb.

We were able to tie our bikes to the top of the boat, which seemed pretty secure. But the ticket agent was pretty vague about the cost of a bike on the boat. At US$2.50 per bike, I think that our bikes paid more than the locals did for themselves aswell as their 50 cane baskets. But that is how things go in Laos and it is often pointless arguing.



The scenery from the boat was nice, and it was interesting to see the locals fishing and washing in the water as we travelled upstream. While the slow boat was painful at times, the other option was a very dangerous speed boat where passengers have to wear helmets! So in comparison, the slow boat was not too bad. It was also nice to chat to other travellers on the way.

We were hoping to cross into Thailand that night but by the time we got there the border was closed, so it was one more night in Laos. We found a cheap guesthouse and the town of Huay Xai was quite nice.

The next morning we boarded a little boat to take us across to the other side of the Mekong to Thailand. We had a quick delicious Pad Thai (Fried Noodles) for breakfast and then onto the bus station. We were thinking about riding to Chiang Rai and then Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand yet after three weeks riding in Laos we opted to catch a bus to rest our legs.

The bus to Chiang Rai was a few hours and the bus driver kindly strapped our bikes to the roof of the bus. He also didn't charge us for the bikes, which is in contrast to having to pay for the bikes on all transport in Laos. Chiang Rai is a pretty large city in the North of Thailand. It would have been nice to spend more time there, but we need to get to Bangkok shortly to sort out our Russian visas. So we spent only a few hours in Chiang Rai while waiting for the next bus to Chiang Mai.

At Chiang Rai we were told that only on the 'VIP' bus could we take our bikes. This was frustrating as earlier that morning they were easily put on top of an old rickety bus. But they wouldnt budge on their position, so we had to buy two 'VIP' tickets for 260 Baht (nz$10 for a 4hr bus). This bus turned out to be absolutely luxurious. It had massive leather lazy boy chairs that were more like a lounge suite. We were served water, face cloths and cream buns while on board and were very pampered. While it was such a treat to travel in this style, it wont be a regular thing as the cost was three times that of the usual bus.

When we got to Chiang Mai it was just how we remembered it from two years earlier when we visited. After buying our train tickets to Bangkok for the next night, we then went to explore the town. We went back to this fabulous restaurant we went to two years ago, and it was equally as good. We had a gaaeng hang lay (northern style pork curry) which had very tender pork with peanuts, ginger and garlic in a stock based sauce and was divine. Also had yummy thai fishcakes and a spicy vegetable salad. It is so good to be back in Thailand with amazing Thai food. The Lao food turned out to lack variety and in small towns the food was often very bland. We often broke our policy of eating only local food in Laos, because it got to the point that we couldnt stomach another bowl of noodle soup. But in Thailand there is so many yummy dishes to chose from that it would be impossible to get sick of the cuisine.

Even though we had a great time in Laos, it is also fabulous to back in Thailand. Every time we visit Thailand we are not dissapointed. The people are so welcoming, no-one rips you off, and im sure I have said enough about the food.

This is an example of the burning we encountered on the road in Laos:

Nong Kiaw to Pak Beng (29th March - 1st April 07)

Day 1:
Nong Kiaw to Pak Mong
Distance - 32km
Average - 16.8km/h

After already having a dreary night in Pak Mong, a "junction town", we were pretty bummed to leave Nong Kiaw, which despite being cloaked in smoke and ash was very beautiful and relaxing. But there was riding to be done. A short ride along a river saw us back in Pak Mong in no time. It was a sunday so everyone was out in the small villages having big village lunches and getting together. We spotted a ice cream vendor in a small village and after queing behing all the kids in the village we managed to enjoy a refreshing, coconut ice cream. A cycling staple.

Day 2:
Pak Mong to Udom Xai
Distance - 85km
Average - 12.6km/h

Probably the most eventful day so far........We started off thinking we had a fairly easy ride but after hitting a 18km hill after 5mins things turned pretty ugly. We thought the mountain part of the riding was over but this was probably the hardest day we have had so far. The ride up the hill was scenic but went on for ever. Villages are usually located near the top of the hill so whenever we would see one we would get excited, but then we would reach the village and see the road winding up another hill, with more hills behind. Add the mental distress of that with ash and smoke gave us a rather sour mood for the day. But after all good climbs there was a great 15km descent. On one of the descents we rode down through a village and came across a Lao hazard, which usually consists of fallen trees on the road or no road altogther. On this case it was the later; Nat was leading and hit the gravel patch but her tyre slid and she came off her bike. She was luckily not going to fast. She had some grazes on her side but was shaken more than anything (and suprisingly more worried about her bike!!!). A few villagers stopped and stared, but suprisingly none came over to see if she was OK. That is one of the oddities, that the Lao are quick to greet you as you ride through but then very shy if you stop. But I learnt later that night this behavious was normal.

Today we also celebrated our 1000th kilometer while riding up one of the hills, elated we had a quick hug and handshake, reflected on the past 1000kms then pushed on.

We pulled into Udomxai after being in the saddle for 6:30hrs. Tired but glad to be there.

We met a italian/american couple who were motorbiking around and had dinner with them. While having dinner we heard a bang and had a look out on the road to see what it was. Two motorbikes had collided and judging by the mess at high speed. Two people were lying there grazed and shocked, and one guy was lying semi-concious with a serious bleeding head wound. A crowd soon formed around them - doing absolutely nothing - we decided even though we could help the situation seemed pretty volatile with a crowd of about 40 around after a few minutes. Both myself and the couple we were having dinner with have senior first aid, but decided it would be hard to help. But they ended up getting moved to the red cross. It was hard to not help though, but the best option in the end.



Day 3:
Udom Xai to Muong Huong
Distance - 99km
Average - 16.9km/h

While we were showering back at the guest house a few people tried to open our door, which we thought was pretty strange and gave us a bad feeling about the place. This was confirmed in the morning when I found my saddle bag (a small bag under my seat) was cut off my bike and we lost some gear, a tool kit and tubes. We usually take the bikes in our room, but we were up some steep stairs which would have been difficult, so we locked them under the stairs. But someone helped themselves during the night.

We were pretty pissed and complained to the owner who just shrugged it off and didnt fully comprehend. We tried to go to the tourism office - shut. We went to the police station to file a report for insurance - shut. So frustrated we rode off.

The days ride took us down a river valley on the way to Pak Beng. The ride was mostly flat and had some beautiful forest sections. We stayed in a guesthouse in Muong Huong with this group of 20 something Lao. Most guesthouses we stay at along the way are usually consist of few rooms out the back of a restaurant or a few extra rooms in a house, which the owners usually vacate for guests. We usually pay about 25-40,000 kip, about 3-5 NZ dollars. The places have a mix of private and shared bathrooms which have squat toilets and a pale and bucket to shower with (it took a while to get this method down).

After learning our lesson last night, we somehow managed to get our bikes in the smallest room we have had to date, there was no floor space left apart from a narrow strip leading to the bathroom. Cosy and secure. Most of these towns only have power from 6-10pm so things get quiet pretty early.

Day 4:
Muang Huong to Pak Beng
Distance - 54km
Average - 17.0km/h

On our sixth straight riding day we were glad to be on the road and looking forward to a few days off. The ride was along side a river and we were going downriver so it was a downhill day!! If anyone was thinking about cycling around Lao, a word of warning; dont do it in march/april!! We managed to time it with the end of the dry season when the farmers "slash and burn". This means they clear the land in the morning then light fires in the afternoon to clear off unwanted vegetation. Since Vang Vieng Lao has been a haze of smoke caused by the fires. Apart from spoiling our views it is not the most fun riding through ash that is falling like snow. We end up with ash all over us. It is so thick you cant even see the sun, which is nice sometimes as it makes it cooler, but thats beside the point. The burning is not a sustainable process as it ruins the soil after a few seasons. There are lots of educational posters around illustrating why not to burn but nobody seems to be paying much attention. We have heard it is the same in northern thailand and they are generating artificial rain to bring the smoke down.

After arriving in Pak Beng we checked into a guesthouse. Pak Beng is at the end of a road and lies on the banks of the Mekong. It is a overnight stop off for the slow boat between Luang Prabang and Chiang Khong in Thailand. The town has a collection of guesthouses and restaurants to house the 100 or so people that turn up at 6pm every night. Local kids line the banks off the river and jump on the boats and grab peoples bags then offer to take it up a very steep bank to the town. It is quite a spectacle to see everyone arrive then jostle for guesthouses. But since we arrived by bike we enjoyed this from the comfort off the restaurant we were in. For the whole afternoon we were the only foreigners in town. We even had to interupt a restaurnateur from TV watching to get some food. We managed to offload our leftover Lao Kip since no banks want it!! Inflation here is near 10% so the guide books are all out of date for pricing after a year.

After our last day riding in Lao we have clocked up over 1300km and 1000 of those in Lao!! It has flown by. Nat is worried about the weird muscles she is developing on her legs!!

Even the Lao grafitti is in good spirit:

Luang Prabang to Nong Kiaw (27th - 28th March 07)

Day 1:
Luang Prabang to Pak Mong
Distance - 115km
Average 17.6km/h

It was pretty hard getting back on the bike after 5 lovely days in Luang Prabang. The ride to Pak Mong was long, but thankfully relatively flat. My (natalie) stomach problems weren't over completely and the riding seemed to aggrevate them, so we took the day quite slowly.

When we got to Pak Mong we had very limited options for a guesthouse. The best we could find was a very dirty, old room. Usually we are pretty flexible with our sleeping arrangments, but this was worse than either of us could handle. It made us realise that when you are on the road, any standards you may have go out the window, as one cant afford to be fussy.

Day 2:
Pak Mong to Nong Kiaw
Distance - 32km
Average 16.5km/h

This morning we headed off very early for Nong Kiaw. I wished that we could have done the ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Kiaw in one day so that it avoided staying overnight in Pak Mong, but 145km was too much for us.

Nong Kiaw is a raved about destination for its stunning limestone cliffs and peaceful setting. Many people also visit Nong Kiaw in transit to head further upstream to another town that is only accessible by river.

When we were riding in to Nong Kiaw we realised what we were in for. It was a very beautiful town yet we could hardly see the stunning backdrop due to the thick smoke from all the slash and burning. This was partly our mistake as it is the season for slash and burning, and at other times of the year the air would be much clearer. But it is also really sad that these agricultural techniques are spoiling the towns for tourism, and even the locals complain of itchy eyes and throats. You can't really blame the farmers for this, as for them it is simply a way to tend to the land. I guess the government or NGOS should provide better education and support to aid the farmers in switching how they do agriculture.

All the same Nong Kiaw was nice to hang out and relax in for a day.