Train through Southern Thai Turmoil to Malaysia(13th -17th April 07)

We wanted to head down to Malaysia on either the 13th or 14th of April in order to give us enough time to cycle down the east coast of Malaysia. We decided to go by train as there has been a lot of turmoil in southern Thailand with rebel attacks, and we didn't think cycling would be the safest idea. The NZ government strongly warns against travel in this area, but we thought we would risk it on the train.

When Nick went to the train station to book our tickets, he was told that sleepers were all booked out for the next five days. This was because it was Songkran (Thai new year) and many Thais were travelling around the country to be with their families for this festive holiday. We were told that there were still hard wooden seats available or first class tickets. So we were in a bit of a dilemma about whether to wait for five days for normal 2nd class sleeper tickets or to try another class. The hard wooden seats would have been a test of endurance as the train is 22 hours long and the hard seats are unbearable after a 2 hour trip - let along sleeping on them. Also the carriages are often very crowded so you cant even stretch your legs. The other option was first class. This was 1650 baht (about 60nzd) per person whereas the normal 2nd class sleeper is about 700 baht. We made a call and decided to go first class. This was quite a splash for our normally very strict budget, but we really wanted to get to Malaysia and 3rd class was out of the question.

So the train trip to the Southern border with Malaysia was done in style. We had a cabin all to ourselves which had a big couch which turned into a sleeper at night. There was also a sink and mirror in the cabin. We plugged in our ipod with speakers and enjoyed a nice bottle of Aussie red that my (Nat's) auntie gave me a few days earlier. It was a great change to how we normally travel.

Our first class cabin!!


We learnt a few days later when in Kota Bharu that the exact same train that we were on, but one day later, was shot at by rebels in this southern part of Thailand. A five year old girl and a train officer were injured in the attacks. The train line has since been suspended. This was pretty scary to learn that if we were one day later, our train would have been shot at. From what research we did before we left Bangkok we learnt that foreigners were not being targeted, it was mainly government sectors that were being targeted as the Muslim minority in the south were seeking greater autonomy, which the state has failed to approve. So incidents such as this is a matter of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. We were lucky to be one day out, but still stirred up our fears when we heard about it.

The train turned out to take 5 hours longer than it was supposed to, so all up it took 27 hours. We got to Sungai Kolok, the Thai border town at around 4.30 and still had to ride 40km across into Malaysia and to Kota Bharu, where we would be staying for the evening. We dont usually cycle at night, but by the time we would on our bikes we had no option but to ride the last part into Kota Bharu in the dark (we do have back and front lights but we dont feel that safe in Malay traffic at night).

Sungai Kolok to Kota Bharu
Distance - 43.1km
Average - 19.5km/h

When we arrived into Kota Bharu we went to a cheap guesthouse and then headed straight off to the Pasar Malam (night market). Malaysian food is something that we both love and Kota Bharu has a famous night market where one can try all the local specialities.

We tried Nasi Kerebu which is a rice dish served with coconut, salad greens and a chilli paste. A great base to have with other dishes of meat or curry. We also tried satays of Chicken and Beef and Murtabak which is a type of roti that is filled with either chicken, beef or banana. Nick also dived straight into the sweet stall which has such a huge range of different Malay sweets. The night market was a great welcome to the start of our trip in Malaysia.

Nasi Kerebu from the Pasar Malam (night market)


We stayed in Kota Bharu for 3 nights. There is lots to do including the Museum, wandering around the central market and the cultural centre.

Birds eye view of the central market


The cultural centre is a great place which puts on shows every afternoon free of charge. From all the travel we have done in Asia, no city so far has catered so well for tourists such as putting on these fabulous cultural shows. The first day we went we saw traditional Malay kite flying and kicking of the ratan ball (just like hacky sack but with a can ball instead). They get you involved and we both ended up playing with the ratan ball for a few hours.

Nat playing Ratan (hacky sack with a cane ball)


The second day we went to the cultural centre we saw traditional self defence, top spinning and a drum band. All highly enjoyable with few spectators so they get everyone that shows up involved. There we met some other travellers who gave us some helpful tips to cycling in Europe.

Kota Bharu is in Kelantan state, which is the most conservative in Malaysia. There is a comparatively much smaller proportion of Indians and Chinese in the state and so there is an apparent Malay dominance in all spheres. One aspect that is initially the most obvious is the conservative dress. All across Malaysia many women (but not all) wear head scarfs, and the proportion of this is much higher in Kelantan. As a foreign women in Kota Bharu, I felt a little bit exposed at times compared to the local women. So I always tried to be a little more conservative in dress than normal, yet this is pretty hard when in 35 degree temperatures. We have heard of other travellers avoid Kota Bharu because of these strong Islamic beliefs, but we both found that it gave the city a unique dimension and you still were very welcomed by the local people. All up we both had a great time in Kota Bharu and it is well worth venturing to if travelling to Malaysia.

Nat racing the kids after school