Thursday, June 28, 2007

Mongolia - Roughing it in a Ger (10th - 15th June 07)

Part one of our Trans Mongolian Train Journey from Beijing to Moscow was an overnight train to Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia. We shared a 4 berth cabin with two others (a kiwi and swede) who booked their ticket through the same company. We bought our tickets through Vodka Train a loose tour group that secured us tickets. In the end we realised it was easy enough and half as cheap if we did it ourselves. But we were provided with accomodation and a "honcho"; a local who gave us tips on the city when we got off the train in Mongolia and Moscow.



This train trip was by far the best we have ever been on. We started off by going through tunnel after tunnel as we passed through the mountains of northern China. We think they we showing off by going through the mountains instead of going around like they do in Russia. Once we reached the Mongolian border we had to change the gauge on the boogies (thats train talk for swapping the wheels) as the tracks in Russia and Mongolia are 3.25 inches narrower than the rest of the world. Communists trying to rebel against the west. This involved jacking up each carriage then putting on new wheels, and we got the best view from onboard.

After a night on the train we woke to amazing views across the Gobi Desert, which in this area is more a grass land that stretches for miles. It was breathtaking scenery with the occasional Yurst (felt gers) tents of mongolian nomads dotting the countryside.



We arrived in Ulaanbaatar (UB) then spent the afternoon exploring the town with our Honcho and trying out some great Mongolian malt beers. Mongolia has an asian face to it, but the city felt more like the west, with designer clothes and more glamour than asia. After a night in the city we went to stay in Ger Camp in a nearby national park for one night. The park is located in a wide valley with steep granite walls, so we spent the afternoon clambering up big boulders, riding camels and some mini horses. Nick was petrified of the horse but didnt seem to mind the camel. He says it has something to do with not being in control and he much prefers his bicycle.



We visited a Nomad family and tried some delciious homemade yogurt (great), cheese (nice) and fermented milk (not nice).

The ger tents are made of felt and have a large stove centred in the middle which is used for cooking and heating the tent. Luckily we didnt have to wake up in the middle of the night as the lovely people at the camp snuck into our ger at 4am to keep it going, but we be them to the chase as we were up ready for sunrise at 4:30.

Overall, Mongolia was stunning. The scenery was unspoilt there are few tourists and the people are always smiling. It is definately on our 'must go back to' list.

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